We’re a small household, just three of us and my daughter has suddenly decided she doesn’t eat meat anymore. As she puts it, she won’t eat “anything that once had a face”. On Monday her resistance crumbled; I’d stuffed little apples with sage leaves and packed them around a leg of pork. Slow roasted in the oven, the outside of the apples caramalised and the soft inside, glorious with sage fumes, made a sublime sauce for the meat. The kitchen was cosy with heat and we had a right feast.

A bit of mustard, the leftovers and a nice crusty baguette made for a perfect lunch at my desk yesterday.